In this pattern hack tutorial Jane will show you how to add a hidden button placket to your Remy Raglan. We used a drapey silk fabric and our new gathered sleeve expansion pattern for this beautiful and versatile blouse!
- Remy Raglan sewing pattern
- Clear grid ruler
- Fabric marking tool (chalk, water soluble pen, etc.)
- Sewing notions (scissors, pins)
- 5 or 6 buttons (we used 5/8")
- Lightweight fusible interfacing
- Scrap Paper
- Buttonhole accessory foot for your sewing machine (if your machine does not have a built-in buttonhole feature).
Before we can start sewing, we need to modify our paper pattern slightly. We will add a 1/2" to the center front of our SPLIT FRONT (2) pattern piece and create our own BUTTON PLACKET FACING pattern piece. To do this:
1. Overlap and tape a strip of scrap paper (2" or wider) to the back of the entire center of SPLIT FRONT (2) pattern piece. Using your clear grid ruler, mark 1/2" out from the original center line. Cut along the new line. This is your new center front when cutting your fabric. Cut another strip of scrap paper 2" wide and the exact length of the center front of the SPLIT FRONT pattern piece. This will be your BUTTON PLACKET FACING pattern piece.
2. Cut 2 opposites of the BUTTON PLACKET FACING from your garment fabric and 2 opposites of the BUTTON PLACKET FACING from your lightweight fusible interfacing. Apply the fusible interfacing to the wrong sides of the BUTTON PLACKET FACINGS according to the manufacturer instructions. Cut 2 opposites of the SPLIT FRONT from your garment fabric using the original layout and instructions, but cutting along the new center front line.
3. Turn up one of the long edges of the BUTTON PLACKET FACING 1/2" towards the inside and press.
4. With right sides together, pin the unpressed long edge of the BUTTON PLACKET FACING to the SPLIT FRONT. Stitch in place using 1/2" seam allowance. Repeat for other side.
5. Press the seam allowance towards the BUTTON PLACKET FACING.
6. Fold the BUTTON PLACKET FACING to the inside and press.
7. Pin and edge stitch in place.
8. Attach the SPLIT FRONT to the SLEEVE using French seams as outlined in the Remy Raglan instructions. Repeat with the other SLEEVE.
9. Attach the SLEEVE to the BACK using French seams as outlined in the Remy Raglan instructions. Repeat for other sleeve.
11. With right sides together, pin the BIAS NECK FACING to the neck edge, folding in both short edges 1/4". Stitch in place using a 3/8" seam allowance.
12. Clip the curves around the neckline.
13. Understitch the BIAS NECK FACING, catching the seam allowance underneath.
14. Turn the NECK FACING edge up 3/8" and press. Tuck the seam allowance under the fold.
15. Turn the NECK FACING towards the inside: press and pin in place.
16. Attach the FRONT to BACK at the side seams using the French seam method.
17. Press the bottom hem up 3/8". Turn up another 1/2" and press.
18. Stitch the hem in place 3/8" from the bottom edge. Press.
19. Mark your buttonholes down the center of the button placket on the wearer's RIGHT and according to your chosen button size. Buttonholes should be vertical and evenly spaced. You can use your BUTTON PLACKET FACING pattern piece as a guide to decide your spacing. (note that the buttonhole placement below was incorrectly marked horizontally but was changed after the mistake was realized).
20. Sew the buttonholes according to your specific sewing machine instructions.
21. Attach the buttons to the center of the button placket on the wearer's LEFT. Mark the button placement by aligning and overlapping the plackets and marking a dot through the center of each buttonhole.
We would love to see your #remyraglan on Instagram!