For those of you who have been patiently waiting for this tutorial, I want to apologize for taking so long to post it. I took all of the photos right when the pattern release happened last spring 2023 and then I suddenly had family issues and obligations that I had to tend to. That combined with the move out of my work studio and well, I haven't had time for actual work up until now. I had also planned on adding a video tutorial on Youtube but that just isn't going to be possible at this point. I truly hope and believe that these photos explain everything you need to sew you own Oxbow Pants.
SUPPLIES
Fabric & Sundries - Bottom weight fabrics in the 10 - 13 oz range such as bull denim, denim, corduroy, canvas and twill. Thread, topstitching thread (optional), metal jeans zipper (see size chart in instructions), 1” (25.4mm) - 1 1/4“ (31.9mm) button (1), light-weight fusible interfacing, 1/4” or 1/2” wide double sided fusible tape for attaching waistband (optional), Fray Check for belt carrier ends (optional).
Fabric Suggestions & Tips - The Oxbow Pants pattern was meant for twill and denim fabrics without stretch, however, I'm sure a little stretch would work if you prefer it. The ideal fabric weight is 10-13 oz, however, slightly lighter and heavier weight fabrics may work as long as the light weight fabric is stiff enough and the heavy weight fabric works in your machine.
If you haven’t sewn with heavy weight fabrics on your sewing machine before, you may want to test a scrap of your intended fabric with three or four thicknesses to be sure your machine can get through it and that you have it on the correct settings.
The following tools can help you when sewing with bulky fabrics.
- Use a jeans needle - size 16 or 18.
- Pounding thick areas with a hammer and anvil (on a piece of wood) will soften the fabric fibers and flatten the bulk if you are having trouble stitching over thicknesses (waistband, belt carriers, flat felled seams).
- A hump jumper , jean a majig or folded up piece of fabric or cardboard to level out your presser foot and make it even with the bulky area you are sewing really helps out, especially for sewing belt carriers.
- Test topstitching thread on a scrap of your fabric. Some machines are fussy when it comes to thicker thread
- You may need to adjust your tension. Only use all-purpose thread in your bobbin.
- I highly recommend making a toile first. If you have similar fabric weight, that is helpful.
APPLY THE INTERFACINGS
Apply the fusible interfacings to all of their respective pieces.
Apply the fly interfacing (12) to the wrong side of the fly facing (7), apply the fly shield interfacing (13) to the wrong side of the fly shield (8).
Apply the waistband interfacings (14) to the wrong side of the waistband (9 or 10) ends. Place the left side piece 1/8”/3 mm from the end. See the below photo for specific placements for Waistband A & B.
Waistband A (9) - Place the right side piece (14) left of the center front notch. Waistband B (10) - Place the right side piece (14) 1/8”/3 mm from the right end.
I also suggest labeling the right and left ends of the waistband. It gets really confusing without the labels later on.
PREPARE ALL POCKETS
Fold the top pocket edge down 3/8”/10 mm towards the wrong side and press (all four pockets, 5A or 5B and 6).
Front Pocket A & Back Pocket
Fold the top pocket edge back on itself at the fold line notches so that right sides are together.
Stitch the sides of the folded top pocket down, through all layers at 3/8”/10 mm. Stitch both sides of the back pockets and front pockets (5B), but only the inside edge if using front pockets (5A).
Front Pocket A & Back Pocket
Front Pocket B
Trim the one layer off the pocket corner seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Using a serger or a zig-zag stitch, finish the outer edges of the back pockets and front pockets (5B). Finish only the outer edge, not the side seam edge of the front pockets (5A).
Front Pocket A & Back Pocket
Turn the top of the pocket right side out and press. Then press the un-notched front pocket (5A) edges and all of the back pocket and front pocket (5B) edges to the wrong side at 3/8”/10 mm.
Fold the angled bottom corner edges last.
Front Pocket B
If using a contrast topstitching thread, you will need to thread your machine with it now.
I usually use a slightly longer stitch when using thicker topstitching thread.
Topstitch the top of the pockets (5A & 6) down at 1”/25 mm or 1 1/8”/ 3cm for front pocket (5B).
Front Pocket B
BACK DARTS
Mark the dart tips on the wrong side of your back pant pieces. I do this by aligning the pattern to the piece and placing a pin through the dart tip dot through to the fabric. Either use a pin or a fabric pencil or marker to mark the spot.
With right sides together, pinch the fabric along the center of one back (2 or 4) dart to match the notches and dart legs.
I often press the dart along the stitch lines to form a crease. The crease makes a visual line for me to follow when stitching the dart legs.
Stitch from the waist to the dart tip. Backstitch at the dart tip as the pocket will cover up any puckers.
Press the dart towards center back.
I like to use a pressing ham when pressing darts so as not to flatten out the shaping that the dart has created.
Topstitch around the dart. You can either topstitch from the right side by feeling the edge of the dart or stitch from the wrong side if you need to see the dart edge. However, stitching from the back side won’t work if you are using contrast topstitching thread.
ATTACH THE BACK POCKETS
If you haven't already marked your pattern pieces, you can find the pocket placement points by aligning your pattern piece to side edges of the back fabric piece. Start with the side pocket point and then again with the center back edge to find the inner pocket point.
Pin the back pockets in place according to the placement marks.
Double check the placement by measuring from the top edges and side edges on both backs to make sure they are the same.
Triple check the pocket placement by laying the two back pieces side by side and aligning the center back seam so you can see if they look uneven. Adjust as needed.
Secure the back pocket to the back by topstitching/ edgestitching around the outer sides and bottom edges of the pocket. Stitch triangles at the pocket corners (approximately 1/2”/13mm wide) for reinforcement.
For a more ready-to-wear look, make two rows of topstitching and use a contrast color topstitching thread.
Be sure to add bar tacks to the top edges of the pockets for reinforcement. You can use a tight zig-zag stitch and stitch a small (maybe 3/8" long) bar tack. This area gets a lot of tugging and pulling and can easily come unstitched if it isn't reinforced.
PREPARE THE FLY FACING AND SHIELD
Fold the fly shield (8) in half vertically so that right sides are together. Stitch the bottom curved edges together with a 3/8”/10 mm seam allowance.
Turn the fly shield right side out, using a point turner for the corner, and neatly press. Finish the long edges together, you don’t need to finish the top edge.
Finish the outer curved edge of the fly facing (7).
PREPARE THE FRONT
NOTE- We will now be referring to the fronts (1 or 3) as the right front and left front. This is determined by viewing the front pieces as you would wear them with the right side of the fabric facing out.
On the left front only (1 or 3), trim away the extension along the line indicated on the pattern. 
Finish the center front edges on both fronts.
Clipping the right front will allow you to fold the extension out of the way so you can finish the edge closer to the crotch curve.
FLY ASSEMBLY
I love this fly method because the zipper is set back enough from the opening that it doesn't peek out from under the fly. That has been a pet peeve of mine with some methods. I also like attaching the fly shield at the end so that it isn't in the way while you are constructing the fly.
With right sides together, match the straight edge of the fly facing (7) with the left front, aligning notches. Stitch from the top down to the dot with a 3/8”/10 mm seam allowance.
Grade/trim the seam allowance on the fly facing side of the seam.
Press the fly facing and seam allowances away from the front and toward the facing.
Understitch along the fly facing catching the seam allowances underneath. Shown here from the face or outer side.
On the right front, fold the extension back right front 3/4”/19 mm to the wrong side so that the fold is even with the crotch curve raw edge and press.
Unfold the fly facing on the left front and the front extension on the right front. With right sides together, match both front pieces together along the crotch seam and pin in place.
Using a 3/8”/10 mm seam allowance, stitch from the inseam edges up to the dot (meeting up with previous fly facing seam allowance).
Open the front and lay it out flat with the right side up. Fold the fly facing and seam allowances towards the left front. Topstitch/edgestitch along the left front from the inseam to the waistline.
Re-fold the extension on the right front to the wrong side of the fabric. With the zipper facing up, position the zipper behind the extension fold of the right front, close to the zipper teeth and pin in place.
Alternatively, you can attach the zipper by cutting a strip of wash-away wonder tape or double stick zipper tape instead of using pins.
Stitch the zipper in place.
Open the front halves and lay the front out flat, with the right sides up. Position the left front to overlap the zipper by matching the left front fold with the center front notch on the right front. Place a pin vertically through all layers to keep the center front edges in place.
Now flip the left front on top of the right front so that right sides are together and the wrong side of the fly facing is upright.
The zipper should be upright and underneath the fly facing.
Use pins or wash-away tape to match the fly facing and zipper together.
Flip the front over and transfer the pins to the other side - directly onto the outer zipper tape.
Using your zipper foot (optional but helpful), attach the fly facing to the zipper. Make two stitching passes for reinforcement.
Lay the front out flat with the right side up. Check that the center fronts and zipper are laying smoothly with no bubbles or puckers. Now, use the fly topstitching template (15) to draw a J-stitch on the left front using tailor’s chalk or a washable fabric pen or you can also pin or tape the template in place and stitch around it.
Make the J-stitch following the shape of the fly topstitching template. Make a second row of stitching 1/4”/6 mm away and outside of the first row.
Turn the front over so that the wrong side is up. Position the fly shield (8) so that it covers the zipper and fly facing.
Find the right side edge of the zipper tape and folded right front extension.
Align the finished edge of the fly shield with the right side edge of the zipper tape and folded right front extension. Pin the fly shield to the extension/zipper tape seam allowance.
Fold the right front back so it’s out of the way (right sides together) and stitch.
It may be a tight fit so you may want to use your zipper foot if you have trouble getting close enough. Stitch over it again to make sure it’s secure.
Lay the front out flat and right side up. Make sure that the fly shield is laying flat and smoothly under the fly. Make a bar tack along the outer stitching curve of the J-stitch through all layers connecting the fly facing and fly shield together.
Make another bar tack where the J-stitch intersects with the center front.
VERSION A POCKET
Place the front pockets (5A) on the front (1 or 3). Align the notches and side seams and pin in place. It’s easier to balance and level the pockets after the fly has been sewn. Try not to flatten the top pocket opening too much so you have some ease to get into the pocket.
Use a ruler to make sure the pockets are level and adjust as needed.
Secure the front pocket to the front by topstitching around the outer edges of the pocket.
If you made two rows of topstitching on your back pockets, do the same for the front pockets here.
Stitch triangles at the corner of the pockets for reinforcement and decoration.
Baste the side pockets in place.
Add bar tacks to the pocket inside corners (approximately 3/8”/10mm wide) for extra reinforcement.
VERSION B POCKET
Place the front pocket (5B) on the front (1 or 3). Align the pocket corners with the placement markings and pin in place.
Try not to flatten the top pocket opening too much so you have some ease to get into the pocket.
Before securing the pockets, check that both pocket placements are level when looking at the fronts together, side by side. It’s easier to balance and level the pockets after the fly has been sewn.
Secure the front pocket to the front by topstitching/ edgestitching around the outer sides and bottom edges of the pocket.
Add bar tacks to the top pocket corners (approximately 3/8”/10mm wide) for extra reinforcement.
BACK TO BOTH VIEWS A & B
Using a serger or a zig-zag stitch, finish the side edges of the front and back pants.
SEW THE CENTER BACK FLAT FELLED SEAM
With right sides together, match the BACK (2 or 4) along the crotch seam aligning the notches. Stitch together with a 3/4”/19 mm seam allowance.
Fold and press the other seam allowance 3/8”/10 mm over the trimmed seam allowance so that the edge just touches the center back seam stitching.
If you have a tailor’s clapper, it can help flatten the fabric when pressing.
Open the back pant with the wrong side up. Press the folded seam allowance towards the right or the wearer’s left side. Pin in place.
If using a contrasting topstitching thread, you will need to topstitch from the front side. Therefore, you will need to transfer the pins to the right side.
Stitch about a fat 3/8”/10 mm from the center front seam through all of the thicknesses.
Make a second row of stitching by edgestitching right next to the seam.
Here is what it looks like from the inside.
If you aren't using topstitching or contrasting thread, you could also stitch from the backside to make sure to catch the folded under seam edges for the first row of stitches.
SEW THE INSEAM FLAT FELLED SEAMS
With right sides together, match the front and back together at the inseams. Align the notches and crotch seams and pin in place. Stitch the inseam together with a 3/4”/19 mm seam allowance.
Slightly stretch the back from notch to notch to fit the front inseam/crotch.
Finish and reinforce the inseam by creating a flat felled seam.
Follow the previous instructions above for the center back flat felled seam.
First trim the front side of the seam allowance.
Fold the back side of the seam allowance over the trimmed edge of the front. Press the seam towards the front.
Pin the folded edges of the seam in place.
Transfer the pins to the front side, keeping the folded edges of the seam allowance tucked under.
Stitch the seams in place with two rows of stitching. One edgestitched row and another that is a fat 3/8"/ 10mm away from the seam.
I didn't use a flat felled inseam with the dark pair for version A because the fabric was so thick and stiff.
The seam allowance was sewn and then I trimmed off 1/4" with the serger while I finished the edges of the seam allowance.
The seams were pressed towards the front and topstitched with two rows of stitching.
SEW THE SIDE SEAMS
With right sides together, match the front and back together at the side seams, align the notches and pin in place. Stitch together with a 5/8”/16 mm seam allowance.
TIP - Baste the side seams and try them on first. You can then easily unpick the seams if you need to adjust the seam allowance width. Remember that your fabric will stretch a bit after wear so you might want a tighter fit than you think.
Press the side seam towards the back starting from the waist to just above the pocket or lower hip notch.
Press the lower portion of the side seam open, starting about 1/2”/13 mm above the bottom of the front pocket for version A or mark the notch that is near the hip on the back pattern piece and start from there on down for version B. Twist the seam at the transition.
With the pant turned right side out, edgestitch along the side seam (on the back), catching the seam allowances underneath. Stitch from the waistline down to the bottom of the front pocket A, or where the pocket notch is for front pocket B.
Remarking the hip notch on the side seam to find the stopping point for the hip stitching on version B.
Hip stitching (shown here on Version A).
WAISTBAND ASSEMBLY
With right sides together and notches aligned, pin the two waistband (9 or 10) pieces together along the top edge. This is the concave edge with the double center back notches. Stitch the seam together with a 3/8”/10 mm seam allowance.
Both waistband versions A & B shown above.
Lay the waistband (9 or 10) out open along the seam with the wrong side up and the right side to the right and left side to the left. The top waistband piece will now be referred to as the outer waistband and the bottom will be referred to as the inner waistband.
Mark the right, left, inner and outer parts with a pen, tape or anything that helps identify them as it’s easy to get them confused.
Grade the seam allowance by trimming the outer seam allowance down a fat 1/8”/3 mm.
Press the seam allowance towards the INNER WAISTBAND.
With the right side up, understitch along the inner waistband following the waist seam and catching the seam allowances.
Understitching. Also, now is a good time to add a label to the center back, inner waistband.
Fold the waistband pieces along the seam, wrong sides together. Fold the seam slightly towards the inner waistband so that it is not showing on the outer waistband once folded and press.
Turn the inner waistband bottom edge up 1/2”/13 mm to the wrong side and press.
With right sides together, match the outer waistband to the waistline of the pants. Align the center front, center back and side seam notches accordingly. You will need to slightly stretch the waistband to fit the pant waist as the waistband is cut on the straight of grain and the pant waist is on the cross grain and has stretched out during sewing. Pin the waistband in place.
For both waistbands A & B - the left center front notch should align with the edge of the fly (center front), however, the extension on waistband A will extend about 2”/5 cm + past the notch and waistband B will only extend 1/2”/13 mm + past the notch.
Stitch the waistband together with a 3/8”/10 mm seam allowance.
Press the waistband and seam allowances up and away from the pants.
Tip - Before you continue with the waistband, zip up the fly and inspect how the front looks. Are the waistband seams aligned? In the above photo, you can see that one side of the waistband is higher than the other at the center front. Make a chalk mark or insert a pin at the level that you want to adjust one side of your waistband. Now. you can unpick that side and resew the waistband, adjusting the seam allowance a little there.
TIP - If you have double sided fusible tape, it works well for adhering the waistband to the pant waist (rather than using pins) before you stitch in place.
For waistband A, fold the left front edge in so that the extension is 1 1/2”/3.8cm long. Trim any excess waistband length and press.
For waistband B, fold the waistband edge in so that it is flush with the edge of the fly. Trim any excess waistband length and press.
The right front edge (both versions) should fold in so that it is flush with the edge of the fly. Trim any excess waistband length and press.
Fold the inner waistband at the upper seam and towards the inside.
Position the folded edge of the inner waistband so it covers the waist seam and waistband stitch line. Pin in place or use your iron to set the fusible tape (if used).
I really like using a double sided fusible tape to temporarily adhere the waistband in place before sewing rather than using pins. It really helps to keep the waistband flat and to keep it from shifting.
With the waistband right side out, topstitch/edgestitch the bottom waistband, making sure you catch the folded edge of the inner waistband underneath.
Then topstitch/edgestitch the top edge of the waistband leaving the center ends unstitched.
Now topstitch/edgestitch the center ends of the WAISTBAND.
ASSEMBLE & ATTACH THE BELT CARRIERS
Using a serger or a zig-zag stitch, finish one long edge of the belt carriers (11) piece.
Fold the unfinished long edge to the wrong side at 3/8”/10 mm and press.
Fold the finished long edge to the wrong side at about 5/8”/16 mm, overlapping the raw edge and coming as close to the folded edge as possible without passing it.
Turn the belt carriers piece over and topstitch/edgestitch along each folded edge while making sure to catch the folded, finished edge underneath.
Cut the belt carriers piece (11) into five equal 3 1/4” /8.3 cm length belt loops/carriers.
TIP - Add some Fray Check to the cut raw ends of the belt carrier pieces to keep them from fraying or use a zig-zag stitch or serge the ends.
Press under the short edges of each individual belt carrier 1/4”/6 mm towards the wrong side.
TIP - Use a hump jumper or folded up piece of fabric or cardboard to level out your presser foot to the same height as the thicknesses of the belt carriers on the pants. This will make it much easier when sewing through thicknesses.
Place the hump jumper in front of the belt carrier so that your presser foot is level with the belt carrier. Then make a narrow bar tack or tight zig-zag stitch to secure it in place.
Move the hump jumper to the outer edge of the belt carrier to finish the bar tack.
Position each carrier on the pant waist before securing them. Start with the two front belt carriers and place them 3 1/2”/8.9 cm from the center front on each side when zipped.
Next position the center back belt carrier so that it is centered over the center back seam. Place the remaining side belt carriers about 3/4”/2 cm behind the side seams (towards the back).
Attach the belt carriers to the pant waist using a bar tack at the top and bottom folded edges.The top of the belt carrier should be stitched around the same level as the upper waistband topstitching and the bottom will surpass the waistband and be tacked onto the pant. If you are using thin fabric and are worried about the belt carriers putting stress on your pants, you can add a small scrap of interfacing to the inside area of the pant where the bottom of the carrier will be tacked.
HEMMING THE PANT LEGS
Turn the bottom of the pant legs up 3/8”/10 mm towards the inside and press.
For the deep hem on Version A, turn the bottom of the pant legs up 2 5/8”/6.7 cm towards the inside and press.
Stitch the hem in place at 2 1/2”/6.3cm above the fold at the bottom.
For Version B hem, turn the bottom of the pant legs up 3/4”/19mm towards the inside and press.
Stitch the hem in place at 5/8"/16mm above the fold at the bottom.
BUTTONHOLE & BUTTON
Attach your buttonhole foot to your machine.
Create a buttonhole on the left front extended tab or flush tab of the waistband according to the placement on the waistband pattern piece. The buttonhole should be centered horizontally on the waistband and be about 3/8”/10 mm from the short edge. A keyhole shaped buttonhole is recommended if your sewing machine has the option, however, a regular buttonhole will do as well.
Using a hand sewing needle and thread, attach the button onto the right side of the waistband. To position the button, zip the fly and lay the tab and buttonhole out flat.
To find the button placement on the right side of the waistband, insert a needle through the buttonhole at the end nearest to the edge. The button should be centered on the waistband. You can try the pants on to be certain of the button placement.
Waistband A
Waistband B
Ta Da! You're Finished!
Nice work! I hope you enjoyed sewing your Oxbow Pants and that this tutorial was helpful.
XOXO,
Peggy
