Do you often wonder why some garments from the same pattern look so different?
There are many reasons for this and I aim to address some of them in this post - at least those pertaining to my latest Revel Topper pattern. Recently someone ask me why the Revel Topper on the left (photo above) has longer sleeves than the photo on the right. I had been planning to write about how to choose your size and realized that after this question, I really needed to go into detail about it before everyone got out their scissors and started cutting into their fabrics.
I'm going to address how two different fabrics can change the look and fit, how choosing your size according to your bust and other basic measurements isn't always the best way, and how the curvy fit can't always be exactly the same as the standard fit.
Fabric choice
It's always difficult for me to decide what fabrics to list under the fabric suggestions of a pattern. The reason being, yes, many fabrics may work, but not all of them will look like the photo. Some will even feel tighter or looser when worn. For example, the photos above show a linen/viscose slub fabric (purchased form Lyrical Fabrics) on the left and a pure linen fabric on the right. The linen/viscose fabric tends to grow a bit when ironed and the weight and drapey nature of the fabric make the garment appear a bit longer in the sleeves, hem and neck. The structured linen appears a little more boxy and smaller. Most linen does soften up and become less structured over time though.
Sizing up or down
The model in the photos above has a bust measurement that is between a size 22 & 24. She is wearing a size 24 on the left and a size 22 on the right. There is enough bust ease in the pattern for her to wear both sizes, however, the fit and look are different. The size you choose may come down to your preferred look and fit.
Bust size vs frame size
It's difficult to explain how to choose a size based on your frame verses your measurements when you only have a small space on the back of a pattern cover. Basic measurements are simply the easiest way to start when choosing your size but they aren't always the best way. I often want to ask for shoulder measurements but have you ever tried to get an accurate shoulder measurement without professional help? The photo above is the best way for me to illustrate this. The model on the left was always a size 6 as is the model on the right (me haha). The model on the left underwent a mastectomy so her bust circumference became very small. If she chose her size based on her new bust measurements, she would end up with a size way too small for her frame so I put her in the size she wore before the mastectomy. Of course if you are making a very fitted garment, your bust size IS important. However, if you are making a garment with a lot of ease, it's meant to be looser fitting so you want to think more about your shoulder width, torso length etc. I've seen customers decide to size way down because there was plenty of ease and as a result, the bust darts are high, the sleeves are short, the shoulders are too tight etc. If you are someone who has narrow shoulders and you are between sizes, you probably do want to size down. If you are broad and/or have a larger frame and are between sizes, you probably want to size up. Broader shoulders also make the sleeves appear shorter.
The photo above also illustrates this. The two models have the same bust measurement. However, the model on the left has a smaller frame size than the model on the right and so the sleeves are too long for her. The model on the right is taller and broader so the sleeve length is accurate.
So how do you decide on your frame size? That's a hard one. I guess I would just say that you have to know your own body shape. I also advise people to think about what US ready to wear size they usually wear. Sew House Seven patterns are based on most current ready to wear sizing. This is also why making a toile is a good idea.
Standard fit vs Curvy fit
First off, I should point out that the extreme difference between the two looks is because the image on the left was made in drapey linen/viscose slub fabric and the one on the right is made in a more structured cotton voile. Also, the pattern tester pictured on the right was between sizes and chose to go with the smaller size. However, the standard and curvy sizing is a bit different. As hard as patternmakers try to make garments for all sizes look the same, it just isn't always possible.
The curvy fit is based on a different shape than the standard fit. For example, a size 20 standard is a based on a person with a larger more athletic frame. A size 20 curvy is based on a smaller frame with curves and a larger bust and narrower shoulders. A garment with a lot of ease in the bust won't hang the same way on someone with narrow shoulders and a large bust as it will on someone with broad shoulders and a smaller bust.
The standard size sleeve extends from the shoulder and then angles in at the waist. The first time I graded this for the curvy size range, the sleeves were way too long and the underarms were really saggy. You can't simply grade the sizes continuously or the shoulders will be too wide, among other problems. I've since updated the grade. The curvy sizing is also based on a larger bust so that changes the fit as well. The curvy size sleeve/shoulder point is a straighter angle to avoid the fit problems I just mentioned. The front armhole is smaller to help the dart take up of excess fabric. If the sewist happens to have a broader frame and they are between sizes but size down, they will get a shorter sleeve length.
Well, this is as much as I will get into this topic here. Many of the things I've mentioned also apply to several of the other Sew House Seven patterns, especially the Remy Raglan. However, remember that it's different if you are making a very fitted bodice. In that case, you will need to base your size off of all of your basic measurements and more. I hope this helps you out when choosing your fabric and size when making the new Revel Topper pattern.
Stay tuned for the Revel Topper sewing tutorial in the next day or two.
Cheers and happy sewing!
XOXO,
Peggy