The Revel Topper Sewing Tutorial

Mar 20, 2025

Welcome to the Revel Topper Sewing Tutorial!

*Note - I was about to release this tutorial but was delayed when I discovered some problems with the pattern. The Revel Topper pattern has been corrected and updated, but if you purchased and downloaded your file before March 18th, 2025, you will need to redownload the new files or contact me directly through the website.

This is a pretty simple sew, but sometimes it's helpful to have visuals to help you through a project so I'm here for you. The Revel Topper has three versions (shown below). I will be featuring versions A & B in this tutorial. These instructions will work for version C as well by just omitting the dart section and the sleeves are simply turned up twice and hemmed.

CHOOSING YOUR SIZE

I highly suggest reading the previous blog post I wrote on this topic here. I truly think it will help you to choose your size and fabric and have better expectations about how the top will actually fit you.

There is also a brief forward shoulder adjustment explained on page 4 of the instructions.

CHOOSING YOUR COLLAR APPLICATION

It’s up to you whether or not you’d like to attach the COLLAR FACING to the outside or inside of your Revel Topper.

The option #1 collar facing is attached to the front with right sides together and is stitched down on the inside of the garment (as seen below in the top left photo).

The option #2 collar facing has the right side of the collar facing attached to the wrong side of the front and is then turned towards the outside of the garment and stitched from the outside (as seen below in the top right photo).

With option #2, be aware that whatever fabric is used for the body will show up as the collar once it’s folded down. Be careful when using one sided prints because the wrong side of the fabric could show up as the collar.

SUPPLIES

Fabric & Sundries: All you need for this is your fabric and matching and/or contrasting thread. And don't forget to use the right sized needle in your machine.

Fabric Suggestions - Light to mid-weight woven fabrics with subtle drape such as linen, viscose/linen blends, Ecovero challis, Tencel chambray, silk charmeuse and some cotton voile fabrics that aren't too stiff.

* Note - tighter woven fabrics such as cotton lawn and broadcloth are usually too stiff to make the neck point corner nicely.

Versions A & B are demonstrated in this tutorial. Version C is constructed in the same way, just omit the darts and the sleeve hem is slightly different (shown at the end).

CUTTING & MARKING YOUR PATTERN

Cutting out the center FRONT and COLLAR FACING pieces. These pieces are cut along the fold, starting at the dark line where the arrow stating, “place on fold here” is pointing and continuing on down. You will then need to take your scissors and slit the center front down to the “slit to here” arrow. Be sure to mark the “stitch to” dot at the center front of both pieces as well.

Versions A & B -

Mark the dart point. I like to use a pin and poke it through the pattern to the fabric.

Using a fabric marker or chalk, make your mark at the pin point. Or you can also use a pin to mark the point.

FORMING THE DARTS (VERSIONS A & B)

With right sides together, fold the FRONT (pieces 1 or 3) bust dart so that the dart legs are matched up together.

Start sewing on the wrong side of the fabric from the dart legs to the tip. Do not backstitch at the dart tip and leave the thread tails long.

Tie the dart tip threads in a knot by hand knotting 4 times. Repeat with the other dart.

Press the darts down toward the bottom. I like to use a ham to press the dart.

Optional contrasting topstitching details - Topstitch the bust darts by edgestitching along the bottom of the dart seam and then pivot and edgestitch along the dart fold. You can either do this from the wrong side or do it by feel from the right side.

COLLAR FACING & ASSEMBLY

Turn up the long edges and bottom end of the COLLAR FACING toward the wrong side of the fabric, 3/8”/10mm and press.

ATTACHING THE COLLAR FACING

See the previous "Choosing Your Collar Application" section at the beginning of this tutorial for photos of the collar variations.

option #1 - With right sides together, pin the COLLAR FACING to the FRONT at the center slit.

option #2 - Pin the COLLAR FACING to the FRONT at the center slit with the right side of the COLLAR FACING to the wrong side of the FRONT.

Using a 1/4”/6mm seam allowance, start stitching from the wearer’s top right side of the collar down to the bottom of the slit and then continue by tapering your stitching towards the marked dot below the opening.

Now pivot and use your hand to turn your machine’s balance wheel to take 2 stitches horizontally at the bottom. Now pivot again and angle back up to the bottom of the slit and then continue back up to the top of the left side, resuming with a 1/4”/6mm seam allowance.

Clip the bottom slit close to the bottom stitching taking care not to clip through the stitching.

Stitch over the top of the existing stitching at the bottom V for reinforcement.

Press the seams open as far down towards the bottom slit as possible.

option #1 - Now fold the COLLAR FACING to the inside and press the seam along the edge. Give the V neck some extra steam and pressing to get the V nice and crisp.

option #2 - Now fold the COLLAR FACING to the outside and press the seam along the edge. Give the V neck some extra steam and pressing to get the V nice and crisp.

Assess the shape of the COLLAR FACING and adjust it so that both sides look symmetrical and the bottom is straight. Pin the COLLAR FACING in place.

Stitch the COLLAR FACING down to the FRONT along the outer edges leaving the collar portion above the shoulders free. Stitch as close to the edge as possible or about 1/8”/ 3mm away from the edge.

Confession - I lost a couple of the photos showing the facing stitched down and the center back collar seam joined. I am inserting a white cotton garment for the version B photos to show these steps.

Optional - Besides the regular straight stitch, you could use a decorative stitch such as zig-zag or embroidery to stitch down the facing.

FORMING THE COLLAR

Unfold the upper portion of the collar - both sides, the outer and the facing. The stitched down facing makes this a little restrictive but it is possible.

With right sides together, pin the two sides of the collar together at the center back aligning the notches and the seams. The seams should be finger pressed opened.

Stitch the center back collar and facing together with a 5/8”/16mm seam allowance. This may take a little finessing but it can be done. Stitch over the open seams.

Trim one side of the seam down so that it is graded once the seam is pressed open and the collar is folded onto the facing.

Press all of the seams open. This is an easier task if you use a pressing ham.

Now turn the collar right side out by folding the COLLAR FACING over the FRONT COLLAR so that the seam becomes a fold and the raw edges meet. Press the center seam flat again as well as the center back seam.

Baste the raw edges of the BACK COLLAR together.

Finish the sides of the FRONT (1,3 or 5) and BACK (2,4 or 6) with a serger or zig-zag stitch.

SHOULDER & NECK FRENCH SEAMS

With wrong sides together, pin the FRONT and BACK together at the shoulder and neck, matching the center back seam of the collar with the center back neck notches of the BACK.

Pin at the center back and the sleeve ends and then continue pinning in between. Now stitch them together with a 1/4”/6mm seam allowance - starting at the bottom of the left sleeve/armhole and up the shoulder, pivoting at the shoulder/neck point and then through the back neck and collar; pivot again and continue through the right shoulder and sleeve/armhole.

Trim any fraying threads.

Press the seam to one side.

Turn the bodice inside out so that the right sides are together and the raw edges of the seam are inside. Now press the shoulder and back neck so that the seam is on the edge of the fold. Pin in place.

With right sides together, and using a 3/8”/10mm seam allowance, enclose the raw edges of the first seam by stitching at the bottom of the left sleeve/armhole up the shoulder, pivoting at the shoulder/neck point and then through the back neck, pivot again and through the right shoulder and sleeve/armhole.

Take care to adjust the collar as you go so as not to catch an extra amount of fabric at the shoulder pivot points. Go slow as this takes some finessing.

* Note - tighter woven fabrics such as cotton lawn and broadcloth are usually too stiff to make the neck point corner nicely.

Press the seams toward the back.

This is a good time to add a label to the center back neck.

Fold the outer edge of the center back collar down to meet the the seam and press.

VERSION A

ARMHOLE FACINGS & SIDE SEAMS

* Again - please email me if you didn't receive the updated armhole facings for the standard size pattern. The pattern was updated on March 18th, 2025. If you purchased or downloaded the pattern after that date, you are good to go.

With right sides together, attach the FRONT ARMHOLE FACING to the BACK ARMHOLE FACING at the shoulder seam with a 5/8”/16mm seam allowance.

* Note, sometimes a little extra is taken up when French seaming the shoulders seams of the outer Front & Back pieces. You may want to hold up your armhole facings to the outer to see if the seam allowance size needs adjusting. This is also important if you cut out the faulty facings that have now been corrected. There is enough room in the seam allowance to simply take a smaller seam if need be.

Press the seam open. Repeat with the second set.

Turn up the un-notched edge of the ARMHOLE FACINGS 3/8”/10mm towards the wrong side and press.

Then turn up the short ends 3/8”/10mm to the wrong side and press - both ends of both facings.

* Note - The garment in this photo below had the ends turned up after the facings were sewn because I temporarily forgot. I also forgot to finish the side seams and did so afterwards.

With right sides together, align the notched side of the ARMHOLE FACINGS to the armhole of the garment and pin in place.

Then stitch them together with a 5/8”/16mm seam allowance.

Grade and trim the seam.

With the seam allowance pressed toward the ARMHOLE FACING, understitch close to the seam on the facing side.

Press the facing towards the inside along the seam.

With right sides together, attach the FRONT to the BACK at the side seams. Start stitching at the underarm of the ARMHOLE FACING - stitching over the folded ends. Pivot at the underarm and continue stitching to the bottom side seam using a 5/8”/16mm seam allowance. Press the seams open.

Turn the ARMHOLE FACING toward the inside of the garment, press and pin in place.

Then stitch the facing down at the outer folded edge. Stitch as close to the edge - approximately 1/8”/ 3mm away.

VERSION B

ARMHOLE FACINGS & SIDE SEAMS

Turn up the long, un-notched edge of the SLEEVE CUFF 3/8”/10mm towards the wrong side and press. Repeat with the second SLEEVE CUFF.

With right sides together, attach the notched side of the SLEEVE CUFF to the armhole of the garment with a 5/8”/16mm seam allowance.

Grade and trim the seams and press them toward the facing. Repeat for the other side.

Unfold the SLEEVE CUFF edges. With right sides together, attach the FRONT to the BACK at the side seams. Start stitching at the SLEEVE CUFF edge and continue to the bottom side seam using a 5/8”/16mm seam allowance. Press the seams open. Repeat on the other side.

Refold the SLEEVE CUFF edges. Fold the SLEEVE CUFF in half so that the folded edge reaches the seam and covers the seam allowance.

Pin in place.

Edgestitch the SLEEVE CUFF in place from the right side so that you can stitch right along the seam on the SLEEVE CUFF side. Press Repeat with the other SLEEVE CUFF.