Welcome to Remy September, where we will showcase our favorite pattern hacks for the Remy Raglan as well as the release of our free sleeve pattern expansion! If you do not yet have a copy of the Remy Raglan pattern, it is 20% off through September 30th with the code REMY20.
Our first hack is a cropped, elastic waist Remy with a contrast neck binding. This tutorial features Remy version #1 but you can use the version of your choice. This top looks amazing with your high waisted pants and can be adjusted to sit higher or lower according to your personal preference.
To begin, you will need:
- Clear grid ruler is best but any straight edge will do
- A pen or marking tool for your pattern alteration
- Rotary cutter (optional, but advised)
- Sewing notions (scissors, pins)
- Thread to match main fabric and contrast binding
- 1.5"/3.8cm elastic, the length of your desired waist fit plus 2"/5cm
Note - We will be using 5/8"/16mm regular seams in this tutorial. You may still use French seams as per the instructions, however, to reduce bulk at the side seams, we have decided to construct this pattern hack with regular finished seams.
Before you begin: using your clear grid ruler, square off the sides and bottom curve on both the FRONT and BACK pattern pieces. This will make it easier to turn up the bottom elastic tunnel.
Straighten the bottom side seam from the waist down so that it forms a right angle with the bottom edge.
1. Using your squared off lines, cut out your FRONT, BACK, and SLEEVE pattern pieces using the main body fabric.
2. Using your rotary cutter, cut a strip of fabric on the bias that is the length of your original BIAS NECK FACING pattern piece, however, widen it to 1 3/4"/4.5cm wide. The wider neck facing piece will now be known as NECK BINDING.
3. With right sides together (we won't be using French seams in this hack as they will add substantial bulk to the waistband) attach the SLEEVES to the FRONT using a 5/8"/16mm seam allowance. Finish the seam using a zig-zag stitch or a serger. Press the seams toward the sleeve.
4. Attach the BACK to the SLEEVES, again omitting the French seams and instead using a 5/8"/16mm seam allowance and finishing the edge. Press the seams toward the sleeve.
5. Lay the body out flat with the wrong side up. Turn the sleeve hem up 3/8"/10mm and press. Then turn the sleeve hem up again 1/2"/13mm and press. This will make hemming easier once the side seams are completed.
6. Turn in 3/8"/10mm on one long edge of the BIAS NECK FACING (NECK BINDING) and press.
7. Pin the right side of the unpressed edge of the NECK BINDING to the wrong side of the neck edge and stitch in place using a 1/2"/13mm seam allowance.
8. With right sides together, stitch the ends of the NECK FACING together where they meet; trim ends to 1/4"/6mm and press open.
9. Press seams towards the NECK BINDING.
10. On the right side of the top, pull the folded edge down until it is just covering the seam and pin in place. Stitch down close to the edge of the fold. Press.
11. With right sides together, attach the FRONT to the BACK at the underarms and sides using a 5/8"/16mm seam allowance. Starting at the bottom, stitch up the side, through the underarm to the end of the SLEEVE. Finish the seam using a zig-zag stitch or a serger. Press the seams toward the back.
12. Turn the bottom hem up 1/4"/6mm toward the inside and press. Then turn the bottom hem up another 1 7/8"/4.75cm and press again. Pin in place.
13. Starting in the back, stitch close to the folded edge. Leave about a 2 1/2"/6cm opening at the center back for inserting the elastic.
14. Insert the elastic into the waistband tunnel. Overlap the elastic 1"/2.5cm and pin together, distributing the fabric evenly around the elastic. Now try your top on and adjust the elastic as needed. If you would like the waistband to sit higher, pin your elastic a little tighter. If you would like the waistband to sit lower, pin your elastic a little looser. When you are satisfied with the fit, stitch the elastic down the center of the overlap and trim any excess. Stitch the tunnel gap closed by stitching close to the folded fabric edge.
15. Stitch in the ditch on both side seams of elastic tunnel to prevent the elastic from rolling.
15. Turn up the bottom sleeve hems where they were prepressed. Stitch the hem in place 3/8"/10mm away from the bottom edge. Press. Repeat with second sleeve.
16. Now roll up the sleeve hem about three turns. *You might tack the sleeve rolls with a hand sewing needle and thread if they don't stay rolled up, or try our button sleeve hack.
We would love to see your finished #remyraglan on Instagram.